Uganda & Rwanda Birding trip report : February 22nd to March 25th 2017
By William Rowe, England
After a year of research and contact with 13 companies, both large and small, I decided on Uganda Eco Tours. This small local company adhered to my brief, which included seeing as many different birds as possible, visiting a wide range of habitats, and seeing gorillas and chimpanzees in their natural habitats. I was impressed with the depth of their knowledge of birds and where to see them. They always replied promptly to my endless questions, and I was impressed by their professional approach. Deo Muhumuza, the owner of the company and an excellent birder, was my guide. Brian Tuhaise, our driver and a talented freelance bird guide, ably assisted him.
Day 1... Upon my early morning arrival at Entebbe Airport, a driver met me and drove me to the Lake Victoria View Guesthouse for a two-night stay. The guesthouse provided excellent WiFi and offered a stunning view of the lake. The garden yielded 20 different birds in as many minutes, including close views of Ross's Turaco and Double-Toothed Barbet. We spent the rest of the day in the nearby Botanical Gardens and the adjoining lakeside. Birds seen included Marino, Red-chested and Scarlet-chested Sunbirds; Black&White Casqued Hornbill; Red-chested Cuckoo; Woodland Kingfisher; Yellowbill, and several different Weavers.
92 different birds in total.
Day 2: After a 5:30 breakfast, we drove 50 km to the Mabamba wetland. This was a wonderful site with a wide range of water birds. The canoe rides were well-organized and comfortable, providing close-up views of the birds. Recent rains resulted in higher than normal water levels, which pushed Shoebills further away from the channels, making it difficult for us to spot them. However, we spotted numerous impressive birds, including African and Lesser Jacana, Black Crake, Black Heron, Pygmy Goose, Allen's Gallinule, and Saddle-billed Stork. Late afternoon, we visited Lutembe Bay for the second canoe ride of the day. Unfortunately, this was a less productive and uncomfortable trip. You need a cushion for the rigid wooden seat. The only birds of interest were a single African Skimmer
and Grey-headed Gulls.
Day 3: We left at 6:30 for Mabira Forest via Kampala, which is usually a 2-hour drive. However, due to heavy rain and rush hour traffic, we arrived at 10:30, which limited our birdwatching time to just 90 minutes. This was a pity, as the forest is home to over 300 species of birds. I did see 19 new birds, including the Blue-breasted Kingfisher, Dusky Long-tailed Woodpecker, Red-headed Malimbe, Little Green Sunbird, White-spotted Flufftail, and Blue-shouldered Robin-Chat. We then drove to Jinja for lunch, then onto Tororo, stopping on the way at the Kibimba Rice Scheme, where Deo arranged with an official for us to drive around the fields. This was an excellent end to our day. We saw: Moustached Grass Warbler, Red-throated Pipit, African Crake, Yellow-billed Storks, African Spoonbills, and a large group of dancing Grey Crowned Cranes. A wonderful sight in soft orange light
of dusk. Dinner and overnight at Prime Hotel Tororo were both unmemorable. The dining area has wifi.
Day 4: Drive to Lake Bisina and surroundings. The area north of the lake was very fruitful with over 30 new birds, including: Grey-headed Kingfisher, Shikra, Black-crowned Tchagra, Abyssinian Roller, Beautiful Sunbird, Holaub's Golden Warbler, Namaqua and Vinaceous Doves, Piapiac, Upcher's Warbler, and Senegal Coucal. Late afternoon we took a canoe ride on the lake, looking unsuccessfully for the endemic Fox's Warbler. A heavy shower and hard seats ruined the ride; even without the rain, I believe we would have spent our time birding around the lake more effectively. We did see a red-knobbed coot and osprey on the lake and a little bittern and flock of black-crowned night herons on return to the shore. We had dinner and spent the night at the Akello hotel in Soroti. The room lacked air conditioning, had holes in the mosquito net, and did not provide an early breakfast as requested, making it the poorest accommodation of the trip. This accommodation, along with Tororo, contributed to the only two unsatisfactory nights of the trip.
Day 5: We embarked on a long drive to Kidepo Valley National Park in the northeast corner of Uganda, engaging in birdwatching along the way. We made good progress on the "brown" roads, spotting numerous birds, especially those of prey such as Fox Kestrel, Common Buzzard, Dark Chanting Goshawk, Pallid Harrier, Black-breasted Snake Eagle, Battelur, Montague's Harrier, and Lesser Kestrel. Also of note were Fan-tailed Ravens, Red-pate Cisticola, White-rumped Shrike, Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush, White-throated Bee-eater, and Hemprch's Hornbill. Late afternoon we entered the park and saw the first "game "of the trip: Oribi, Hartebeast, Warthog, Reed Buck, Dik Dik, Water Buck, Ugandan Kob, Cape Buffalo, and Elephant. Birds seen included: Abyssinian Ground Hornbill, Lappet-faced Vulture, Clapperton's Francolin, and Grey-headed Social Weaver. We stayed 3 nights at the Apoka Bandas. These are round traditional-style huts with solid walls, a thatched roof, and en-suit facilities. The stay was filled with enjoyment. The proposed night drive did not happen as the park does not provide a spotlight, but there were the sounds of lions and owls during the night. Food was local and plentiful, including delicious fresh fruit and a hearty packed lunch as well if you could manage it.
Day 6: Birding the northern sector of the park in our comfortable Toyota Ladcruiser with the roof up for 360 viewing. We traveled close to the borders of South Sudan and Kenya in search of local species. Birds seen included: Denham's and Black-bellied Bustard's , White-headed Buffalo Weaver, Red-billed Hornbill, Ostriches, African White-backed, White-headed and Ruppell's Griffon, Vultures , Rufous Chatterer, Nubian woodpecker, Bru Bru , Abyssinian Scimitarbill, Little
Bee-eater, Crested Francolin, Yellow-bellied Eremomela, White-crested Turaco, Black-breasted, Spot-flanked, D'Arnaud's, and Red and Yellow Barbets. We also saw Rock Hyrax and Bush Dyker. We arrived back late afternoon just before a downpour, which flooded several tracks and delayed others returning to the Bandas. Our timing was excellent.
Day 7: Birding the southern sector of the park. The new game today included zebras and giraffes. Birds included : Wahlberg's and Tawny Eagles, Grasshopper Buzzard, Short-toed Snake Eagle , Familiar Chat , Mocking Cliff Chat, Black Bishop, African
Paradise Flycatcher (white morph), Yellow-bellied Hyliota, Gambaga Flycatcher, Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, Northern White-crowned Shrike, White-crested Helmet-Shrike, Brown-rumped Bunting, Rufous-naped Lark. Our bird list was now over 300.
Day 8. After a couple of hours of birding, we left the park to drive to Murchison Falls NP. While some sections of the new road are complete, the ongoing construction can cause delays. There were road humps every 100 meters along a 20-kilometer stretch. Next year, this journey should be much quicker. We made a good lunch stop at Kitgum while birdwatching on the way. Birds seen included: Western Banded Snake Eagle, White-bellied Bustard, Slate-coloured Boubou, African Cuckoo, Heuglin's Wheatear, Cinnamon-breasted Rock Bunting, and Black-headed Batis. A splendid Goliath Heron greeted us upon our late afternoon arrival at Murchison. We stayed 3 nights at the Pakuba Safari Lodge. The Pakuba Safari Lodge provided excellent accommodation, great food, efficient laundry service, and a very helpful and friendly staff. Only the reception area offers WiFi. Please heed this warning. If you have a desktop fan in your room, don't
Aim it directly at your bed, as it can blow apart the mosquito nets. I finally worked this out on the 3rd night—several bites too late!
Day 9. We explored the northern sector of the park and, with the roof up, had excellent views. Non-bird highlights were: hyenas, side-striped jackals, hippos, elephants, marshes, and slender mongooses. Birds seen included: Heuglin's Francolin,
The following birds can be seen: the Caspian Plover, the Spotted Mourning Thrush, the Chin-spot Batis, the Northern Puffback, the Water Thick-knee, the Black-lored Babbler, the White-winged Black Tit, the Yellow Bishop, the Fawn-breasted Waxbill, and the White-headed Barbet. However, late morning in the Delta area, about 100 m from the car, I spotted the best bird of the trip to date. Standing in the open in clear sight was a shoebill, the top bird on my wish list.
Day 10: Morning birding in the northern sector again; fewer new birds. We found 2 sleeping lions keeping cool in the shade of some scrub. Highlight of a slow morning was a small grey bird, which I correctly identified before either of my two guides, a cutthroat finch. This turned out to be the first record for Murchison Park. Other birds seen included the Vitalline Masked Weaver, Temminck's Courser, Steppe Eagle, Red-throated Bee-eater, and Black-rumped Waxbill. After lunch at Paraa, I took a 3-hour river trip up the Nile to the base of the Murchison Falls. Although there was a guide on the boat, he only indicated some common species. Bird identification was down to me. The enormous Nile crocodiles basking on the banks were very impressive. The only new birds seen on the river were African Darter and Senegal Thick-knee. However, the boat trip was memorable for: the close views we had of animals on the river banks and shores; the view as we approached and moored close to the base of the Falls. I then slowly took a challenging hike to the top of the Falls, with breathtaking views along the way. The resident Pel's fishing owl is no longer in this area. However, the sight of Giant Kingfisher and Rock Pratincole on the way up, along with a Bat Hawk circling as I reached the top for a breathtaking 360-degree view, amply compensated for my loss. On the ride back to the ferry at Paraa, we also saw a Banded Mongoose, Leopard Tortoise, Red-necked Falcon, and Wire-tailed Swallows.
Day 11:. Early morning, just after leaving the Safari Lodge, we were very fortunate to see close to the road, half way up a tree, an adult leopard enjoying its breakfast, and a small antelope called an Oribi. The sight was both special and gruesome. We then continued birding the southern sector of the park into the Kanin-Pabidi extension of the Bodongo forest reserve. During the latter section, we kept all windows closed as this is a Tsetse fly-infested area. Birds seen included: Gaba Goshawk, Eurasian Honey Buzzard, Spectacled Weaver, Snowy-crowned Robin Chat, Lead-coloured Tit-flycatcher, Eastern Carmine Bee-eater, African Golden Oriel, Semi-collared flycatcher, Pygmy Sunbird, Grey-headed Bush Shrike, Brown Babbler, Yellow-throated Tinkerbird, White-thighed Hornbill, and Red-headed Bluebill. We also spotted blue monkeys for the first time. Finally, as we arrived at our hotel in Masindi, we saw Red-headed Lovebirds. We stayed 3 nights at the Kolping Hotel in Masindi. The reception area had wifi. The accommodation was excellent, but the food was the low point of the trip. After our first evening meal, we spent the next two evenings at the Masindi Hotel, the oldest hotel in Uganda. I enjoyed delicious Indian cuisine there.
Day 12. I was full of anticipation as we were birding one of "Uruguay's birdwatching hotspots," and it did not disappoint. 61 new birds seen! Raymond, a specialist local guide, joined us and his expertise proved invaluable. We walked up and down the Royal Mile and along trails in the forest. Birds seen included: Cassin's and African Crowned Hawk Eagles; African Dwarf and Chocolate-backed Kingfishers ; Yellow and Grey Longbills, Brown Twinspot ; Little Grey , Slender-billed, White-throated , Little and Spotted Greeenbuls ; Scaly-breasted and Brown Illadopsis ; Grey-headed Olive-back , African Fire Finch, Brown-eared and Yellow-crested Woodpeckers , Chestnut Wattle-eye, Fire-crested Alethe , Forest Flycatcher, Lemon-bellied Crombec , Ituri Batis, Rufous Flycatcher Thrush , Wilcock's Honeyguide, Western Nicator, Black Saw-wing, Yellow-browed and Olive-green Camaropteras , Red-tailed Ant-Thrush , Black and White Mannikin , Village Indigobird, Cabanni's Bunting, Superb and Copper Sunbirds .
Day 13:. We set off with the intention of birding a different section of the forest in Busingaro; however, we left and returned to the Royal Mile as the area was very quiet. Birds seen included: Scaly Francolin, White-chinned Prinia, Black-crowned Waxbill, Violet-backed Starling, Blue-throated Roller, Black-shouldered Nightjar, Narino Trogon, Crested Guinea Fowl, Ashy Flycatcher, Sabine's Spinetail, Crested Malimbe, Red-tailed Greenbul, and Ugandan Wood-Warbler. We also saw a tree squirrel, a red-legged sun squirrel, and a tree hyrax.
Day 14. Despite the limited birding opportunities due to the long drive to Kibale, we managed to spot some impressive birds. Highlights were Finfoot and African Black Duck. Others included: Red-collared Widowbird, African Emerald Cuckoo, Dusky-Blue and Cassin's Grey Flycatchers, Grey-throated Barbet, Siffling Cisticola, White-eyed Slaty-Flycatcher, and Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater. On arriving at the Chimpanzee Forest Guest House, we found 3 new birds in the attractive gardens, namely: Bronze Sunbird, Brimstone Canary, and Speckle-breasted Woodpecker. Our 2-night stay at The Chimpanzee Forest Guest House was excellent, with decent no-frills accommodation. There were many choices on the menu, but the "local food of the day" was a hidden delight. The Guest House also featured a small gift shop with reasonably priced genuinely local products and an efficient laundry service.
Day 15. We made an early start to be in the forest before dawn, particularly to see the green-breasted Pitta. Heavy rain fell for several hours, foiling our best attempts. With the help of an experienced local guide, we heard and saw the Pitta briefly on 3 occasions. Our other hard won rewards this morning included: White-tailed Ant-Thrush , Black-billed Turaco , Black Bee-eater, Lesser Honeyguide , Yellow-billed Barbet , Chestnut-winged Starling, Afep Pigeon and Grey-cheeked Mangabey. After lunch, the weather had improved, and I returned to the forest for chimpanzee tracking. Guests from the previous day had warned us that they had had limited views of just a few chimpanzees high up in the trees. After a 40-minute trek, we found the chimpanzee family, and there were 5-6 moving above us in the trees. The guides then pointed out that more chimpanzees were arriving on the ground, and soon we had about 10 chimpanzees within 5-7 m from us on the ground. They were delightful and appeared unworried by our presence. Two appeared to stretch out and have a nap, two females nursed their young, and an older male (approximately 37 yo) sat and watched whilst we took many photos and videos. It was a memorable end to the day, which had such a damp and unpromising start. I felt very privileged to be able to spend 90 minutes in the presence of such fascinating animals.
Day 16: Morning birding in Bigodi Community Wetland, a pleasant 4 km trail. The swamp and low scrub/secondary forest were not very productive, with only 7 new birds. The highlight was close-up views of Red Colobus monkeys. Birds seen included: Red-headed Quelea, Scaly-throated Honeyguide, Bocage's Bush Shrike, Shining Blue Kingfisher, White-collared Oliveback, African Goshawk, and Yellow-throated Greenbul. After lunch we drove to Fort Portal, then up to surrounding hills near Lake Kigere, where we saw: Great Crested and Little Grebes, African Hobby, Rock Martin, Red-rumped Swallow, Senegal Lapwing, and African Stonechat. Overnight at Rwenzori View Guest House, WiFi in dining area. Comfortable, friendly place. Excellent food eaten at a large communal table with lively conversation.
Day 17. We set off before dawn on a 90-minute drive to Semliki NP. We collected Justice, an excellent local guide from the UWA office, and spent the day birding the Kirumia trail. We trekked 4 hours into the park, stopping at a large pool where we were lucky to see a White-bellied Kingfisher. Then, amazingly, our hot lunch arrived, brought by a fit young man from the UWA budget camp. It was a surreal experience sitting in the middle of the forest eating delicious local food with proper plates and cutlery. We then retraced our steps through the forest. Birding was slow and difficult, but we saw 18 new birds, including many local specialties. These included: Piping, Black Casqued, White-crested and Red-billed Dwarf ,
Hornbills ; Xavier's and Icterine Greenbuls ; Grant's Bluebill ; Yellow-throated Nicator ; Chestnut-breasted Negrofinch ; Grey-headed Sunbird ; Jameson's Wattle-eye ; Black Cuckoo and Sooty Boubou . We also saw Dent's Monkey and Alexander's Dwarf Squirrel . The bird list is now over 500 .
Day 18 . Early start and back to the Kirumia trail to find birds not seen yesterday . On the way to the forest we saw 2 new birds , Western Bronze-naped Pigeon and Orange-cheeked Waxbill . The latter only recently extended its territory to Uganda . During the morning we added 12 new birds to our list . Including : Black Dwarf Hornbill; Yellow-whispered Greenbul ; Black-bellied Seedcracker ; Yellow-throated Cuckoo ; Leaflove ; Martial Eagle ; Red-bellied Malimbe and Southern Red Bishop . Plus a short sighting of a fast moving Elephant Shrew. After lunch we had a 3-4 hr drive to Queen Elizabeth NP , but just before we entered the park Deo had a surprise for me . There in a nest 200 m from the road was a very large Verraux's Eagle Owl chick .
We stayed 2 nights at the Bush lodge in a posh tent . This was "glamping " a large tent on a raised wooden platform with a thatched roof with my own al fresco en suit through a door at the back of the tent . The staff here were superb almost carrying out your wishes before you asked them . The candle lit 3 course dinner around a large campfire
would have not been out of place in good city restaurant , it was scrumptious . I had a torchlit escort to my tent . At 5am the shower tank outside my tent was filled with hot water so I had a hot shower in the moonlight, amazing . The Lodge also has an excellent laundry service
Day 19 . Another pre-dawn start to see some special birds before we entered the park . As the sun came up we had good views of Carruther's Cisticola and Papyras Gonulek . We birdied the savannah area of the park for the rest of the morning with little success seeing only: White-tailed and Red-capped Larks ; Kittlitz's Plover and Lesser Masked Weaver . After lunch , closely watched by Marabou Storks hoping for a free meal, I took a 2 hr cruise along the Kazinga Channel , which connects Lakes Edward and George . The on board guide was helpful but with a boatful of tourists there was little individual attention . However I did see some new birds for the trip although many were already known to me . Birds seen included : Eurasian Spoonbill ; Lesser Black-backed Gull ; Great White Pelican; Whiskered Tern ; Sanderling and Lesser Moorhen. Although the cruise yielded few birds it did provide excellent close up views of a large variety of game including: Elephants; Hippos with young; water Buffaloes; Baboon and Wart Hog families; Bushbuck; Waterbuck and Ugandan Kob. The large flocks of water birds, particularly the African Skimmers, were also impressive. On the way back to the Lodge we stopped at some small reed beds and saw Sedge and Reed Warblers. Before dinner there was one last surprise a Forest Hog walking close to my tent
Day 20. An early start to a day spent mostly driving to get to Buhoma by the afternoon . We drove south through the Ishasha section of the park but did not see any of the famous tree climbing lions . However we did make two strategic stops on the way and saw some new birds. Including : Trilling Cisticola ; Black-winged Bishop ; White-winged Widowbird ; Black Coucal ; Fan-tailed Grassbird ; Cardinal Woodpecker and Rufous-necked Wryneck. We arrived mid-afternoon at Buhoma Community Camp with few birds in evidence but within an hour or so several new birds appeared . The Bwindi Impenetrable Forest is at a higher altitude and so has a new set of birds to see . Birds seen included : Northern Double-collared Sunbird; Golden-breasted Bunting ; Thick-billed Seedeater ; White-tailed Blue Flycatcher ; Black-billed and Brown-capped Weavers ; Pink-footed Puffback and Petit's Cuckoo Shrike. We stayed at Buhoma Community Camp for 2 nights . Good Wifi in the bar/restaurant which overlooks the forest providing close views of birds and magnificent views of the forest . Accommodation and food were very good, staff friendly and helpful plus a good laundry service. Close to the camp there are many shops selling local handmade craftwork , where I bought several gifts to take home.
Day 21. Early start with a packed lunch to bird the forest all day including the picturesque waterfall trail . Once again we were joined by a brilliant local guide , Matthew Kajungu , who ensured that we had a very successful day . Birds seen included : Ludher's and Many-coloured Bush Shrikes ; Montane Oriole ; Bar-tailed Trogon ; Grey-winged and White-bellied Robin Chats ; African Broadbill ; Cassin's and Thick-billed Honeyguides ; Black-faced Rufous Warbler ; Whaller's Starling ; Grey Apalis; Kakamega Greenbul ; Grey Cuckoo-Shrike; McKinnon's Fiscal Shrike and Equatorial Akalat . We also saw our first Albertine Rift Endemics ( ARE ): Red-throated Alethe ; Yellow-eyed Black Flycatcher and Chapin's Flycatcher . Plus we saw a Black-fronted
Duiker in the forest. By now it was mid-afternoon and the threatened rain arrived . After the rain Matthew kindly took to me to his old school , St Matthew's Nursery and Primary School , just outside Buhoma . I received a very warm welcome and a guided tour from the Headteacher , followed by an impromptu performance of enthusiastic singing and dancing by the pupils. The school provides much needed education and hot food for local children as well as caring for 12 orphans . They are currently moving out of their simple wooden classrooms into brick built ones and would welcome donations . Please visit if you are in the area. I willcontinue to support the school in the future.
Day 22. We drove to the Ruhiija section of the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest birding along the way including the popular " Neck " in the morning . Although only a 2 hour journey we made several strategic stops adding new birds . Including : Red-faced Woodland Warbler ( ARE ) ; Auger Buzzard ; Western Citril ; Black-throated Canary ; Green Sunbird ; Fine-banded Woodpecke; Shelley's Greenbul ; olive Pigeon ; Streaky Seedeater ; Chubb's Cisticola and White-starred Robin . Late afternoon , after arriving at the Broadbill Forest Camp , we birdied the nearby community trail with great success . We saw 6 new AREs : Dusky Crimsonwing; Mountain Masked Apalis; Strange Weaver; Rwenzori Batis ; Stripe-breasted Tit and Regal Sunbird . Other birds
seen included : East African Swee ; Chestnut-throated Apalis ; Rwenzori Hill Babbler ; White-browsed Crombec ; Black-headed Waxbill ; western Green Tinkerbird ; Mountain Yellow Warbler and Yellow-crowned Canary . We also heard another ARE the Rwenzori Nightjar . Plus groups of L'Hoest Monkeys and , Ochre Bush and Rwenzori Sun Squirrels ? We stayed 3 nights at the Broadbill Forest camp which is owned by one of Uganda's most notable birders , Emmy Gongo . The setting and facilities
were superb . The tented accommodation was en suite , with a wooden deck and balcony overlooking the forest . With individual wood burners for hot water and solar power the camp has great " green " credentials . Staff were wonderful and the food was great . This was my favourite place in which I stayed , in Uganda . It celebrated the flora and fauna of the country and demonstrated ecotourism at its best . Well done Emmy
Day 23 . At last a chance to see Mountain Gorillas . After breakfast we took a short drive to the park HQ for briefing on our day's activity . This is a very strenuous and challenging activity so you need to be reasonable fit and in good health to undertake it .The Bwindi Forest hosts over half of the world population of mountain gorillas ( currently 900+ and rising ) . I was in a group of 3 led by an experienced guide assisted by knowledgeable trackers who find the apes . We had trekked for an hour down a steep sloped tea plantation to the edge of the forest, hen our guide received a radio message from the trackers that the apes were close by . A few minutes later our guide parted the vegetation and there 10 m away were a family group of gorillas . This was the Oruzogo group comprising of 18 individuals : 3 silverbacks ; 1 blackback, 5 females ; 4 adolescents and 5 young . The youngest of which was 2 months old . We spent an hour moving slowly around the family only 5-7 m away . We enjoyed close views of the adults feeding , grooming and resting , whilst the youngsters were playing and the very young being nursed . As our time with the family came to a close it began to rain so the lead silverback , Bakawate , began to pull vines over himself for shelter and youngsters ran back to females , a heartwarming scene . We then made our way up the steep slippery slope using our walking stick and assisted by strong helping hands when needed . Overall the activity lasted 4 hours but my memories will last a life time . The UWA must be congratulated for creating this wonderful of sustainable ecotourism , where the local community benefits from the majority of the fees paid . Whilst the welfare of the gorillas remains paramount by the strict control of numbers and contact time . After lunch we resumed birding the Ruhiija Community Path and found another 3 AREs namely , Ruwenzori Apalis , Handsome Francolin and Blue-headed Sunbird . We also saw : Yellow-streaked and Mountain Greenbuls ; Doherty's Bush Shrike ; Willard's Sooty Boubou and heard Barred Long-tailed Cuckoo . Also seen Boehm's Bush Squirrel . After such a wonderful day I celebrated with a delicious local gin and tonic our bird list now being 600+
Day 24 . Carrying our packed lunch we set off from the UWA HQ on a strenuous 4km walk down through the forest to the Mubwindi Swamp , a 2350m to 2050m drop , and back up again ! We had our lunch by the famous swamp in splendid isolation . Although we only saw a few new birds they were special , including 4 new AREs : Archer's Robin Chat ; Dwarf Honeyguide ; African Green Broadbill and Grauer's Swamp (Rush) Warbler . We also saw : White-headed Wood-Hoopoe ; Banded Prinia ; Cape Wagtail and Slender-billed Starling . Finally on our way back as I stopped for breath we looked down on a distant forest clearing and saw a solitary Sitatunga . On returning to the Lodge a member of staff had a surprise for me . He led me to a small tree just off the main track , pulled aside a branch and there just a metre away was a splendid male Rwenzori three-horned
Chameleon , another ARE . A fitting end to my stay at the wonderful Broadbill Forest Lodge .
Day 25 . After breakfast we drove off birding to Mgahinga through Echuya forest . Once again using Deo' s specialist knowledge we made some strategic stops . Our first and most productive stop was at Nyamuliro Wetland an area of papyrus swamp . Birds seen included : Ruaha Chat; Papyrus Canary ; Greater Swamp Warbler ; Northern Masked Weaver and Papyrus Yellow Warbler . Next stop we saw several White-naped Ravens . We arrived at Echuya forest just after midday , not a good time for birding . Unfortunately the Forestry Department fine birders who pull off the road to bird which is totally opposite to the bird-friendly
approach of the UWA . Therefore we only made a brief stop in what is potentially a very good birding area and saw just 2 new birds : Cinnamon Bracken Warbler and Mountain Soot Boubou . Finally above Kisoro we used our scope to view a distant lake below and spotted Hottentot Teals and White-backed Ducks . Arriving in Kisoro we stayed 2 nights at the Travellers Rest Hotel .
Good Wifi , comfortable accommodation , very good food and excellent views of the Mgahinga mountain ranges .
Day 26 . 5:30 breakfast then 1 hour drive to arrive at Mgahinga NP just after dawn . Spectacular scenery including the " Mountains of the Moon " a volcanic mountain range in the south western corner of Uganda bordering Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo . With such a large trip list seeing new birds was increasingly difficult and this was compounded when we were told that the prime birding trail , the Sabyinyo trail , was closed . However with the help of excellent local guides after a hectic trek through the forest we had close up views of 2 Ruwenzori Turacos . This large extremely colourful bird was matched by another ARE , the tiny Ruwenzori Double-collared Sunbird . Other birds seen included : Mountain Buzzard ; White-tailed Crested Flycatcher ; Olive Woodpecker ; Klaas Cuckoo ; Olive Thrush and Cape Robin Chat . Non-bird highlights were : Ruwenzori Giant Earthworm (up to 45cm long) and Golden Monkey . We also saw wild pumpkin known as " elephant beer "
for its after effects on its consumers .
Day 27 . As we set off to cross the nearby border into Rwanda we saw our final new bird an African Citril . The border crossing took 45 mins . However 1 hours driving into Rwanda Deo my guide fell ill and could not continue the trip . The cold and higher altitude of the last few days had taken their toll and subsequently he was diagnosed with pneumonia . We returned to Kisoro , made arrangements for Deo' s care then late afternoon Brian and I crossed the border for the third time . Brian , an excellent birder in his own right , then took on driving and guiding duties for the remainder of the trip . We stayed the night at the Mahabharata Hotel . Good Wifi , food and accommodation Diane Fossey stayed here regularly , and outside Room 12 there is noticeboard commemorating her work with mountain gorillas .
Day 28 . A day late we set off for Nyungwe NP , driving through heavy rain , on good tarmac roads which snaked up and down the mountainous countryside and arriving mid-afternoon . I set off with a local guide down into the forest , following the Kamiranzovu Swamp Trail . With such a long trip list seeing new birds was a challenge . However we saw two new AREs Grauer's Warbler and Newman's Warbler . Other AREs were also to find and see here compared to Uganda . We also saw : Stuhlman's Starling ; Kandt's Waxbill ; White-bellied Crested Flycatcher; Evergreen Forest Warbler ; Mountain Illadopsis ; Red-chested Flufftail and Bohm's Squirrel . We stayed two nights at the Gisakura Guest House . Satisfactory accommodation if a little " tired " also shared toilet and shower for the only stay of the trip . Staff were very friendly and helpful . Food was good local fare in huge quantities.
Day 29 . Morning and afternoon treks into the forest including the famous Umoyove Trail . A slow birding day with heavy rain in the afternoon resulted in few new birds . Our trekking down and up , narrow , steep and muddy trails were rewarded with two new AREs namely : Purple-breasted Sunbird and Kungwe Apalis . Also seen were Ruwenzori Duiker , Dark-backed Weaver and Sharpe's Starling . However the highlight of the day was watching a huge troop of Angola Colobus Monkeys, which at 600+ is the largest troop of monkeys in Africa .
Day 30 . We set off early on a long drive diagonally across Rwanda ,stopping at Kigali for lunch arriving late afternoon at Akagera Game Park . Driving through heavy rain all morning in the mountains gave no chances of birdwatching . However as we drove across the plains towards the park we found some new birds . Including : Bare-faced Go-away Bird ; Orange-winged Ptylia ; Hildebrandt's and Red-necked Francolins (Melanogaster sub sp ) . Plus Yellow-winged Bat . Our last two nights stay were at the Ruzizi tented Lodge a truly wonderful way to end my trip . After Broadbill Forest camp this was my favourite accommodation . My tent had mosquito nets integrated into its windows and contained a huge bed plus bath and shower in the en suite . Dinner was al fresco on decking overlooking the lake . We served ourselves from the excellent selection of food laid out in pots resting
around a large campfire . Service was impeccable , staff could not do enough to help and there was a free laundry service .
Day 31 . A full day birding the southern sector of the park . This is an excellent site with hindsight I would have stayed a further two days to explore more of the park . On our last full day we added over 20 new birds to our list , an amazing achievement . Birds seen included : Tabora , Rock-loving and Wing-snapping Cisticolas ; Red-faced and Crested Barbets ; Red-headed and Parasitic Weavers ; Purple-banded and W. Violet-backed Sunbirds ; Miombo Wren Warbler ; Arnot's Chat ; Black-backed Puffback ; Red-faced Crombec ; Common Scimiterbill ; Madagascar Pond Heron ; Lesser Swamp Warbler ; Zebra Waxbill and Coqui
Francolin . After an early dinner specially provided for me I finally went on a night drive , with specialist guide . This was a great way to spend my last night in Africa and it did not disappoint . We saw two new birds , Square-tailed and Swamp Nightjars plus a variety of mammals often in large numbers . Those seen were : Impala ; Waterbuck ; Water Buffalo ; Topi ; Spotted Hyena ; Scrub Hare ; Thick-tailed Bushbaby and Greater-spotted Genet .
Day 32 . As we had seen most of the likely water birds we did not take the planned canoe trip on Lake Ihema , instead we birdied the south-east corner of the park . Our drive was curtailed by a heavy downpour but our 4x4 coped admirable with the flooded roads and we made it safely back to the park HQ for lunch . Before the rain we made our final additions to our lists . These were :Common Button Quail ; Long-billed Pipit ;Green-backed Eremomela ; Purple-crested Turaco ; Red-billed Teal and
Thick-billed Cuckoo . We then had a leisurely drive back to Kigali for my evening flight with KLM back to the UK .
Final totals:
Different birds seen and heard. 693. (Includes 10 heard only)
Albertine Rift Endemics. 24. (20 in Uganda & 17 in Rwanda)
Life birds for me. 615
Other animals:
Primates. 15
Carnivores. 13
Herbivores. 30
Reptiles. 9
My deep and sincere thanks go to Deo and Brian for creating such breathtaking memories of my first trip to Africa .
